This is Kerala, where coconut palms sway to the gentle music of salted breezes from the Arabian Sea. Where jewel-like flowers droop from the scrim of hibiscus overhanging the canals, veiling the dripping jungle. This too is Kerala, rolling hillsides where green, white and black pepper grow as parasites on coffee plants and rubber trees shade cardamom enclosed in thickets of white angel’s trumpets. And this is Kerala, where narrow roads twist and turn through tea and spice plantations which blanket the slopes of the Western Ghats, divided by brilliant green hills which the British once called the “Scotland of India.”